| Warp and weft silk threads are
tied separately with cotton thread on the portions already
marked out in conformity with the proposed design in the
fabric. This tied portion is meant to remain unexposed
to the colour while dyeing. United portion which has absorbed
one colour, may be tied while dyeing in another colour.
Tyeing untying, retying and dyeing in different shades
are the main features of this process. |
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Creating design by
tyeing knots on
warp and weft |
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After completion of dyeing work
of warps & wefts, the threads of the warp of different
repeats of a pattern are put together in a sequence on
the loom, so that the design becomes visible. The threads
of wefts are wound on to bobbins and kept in the bamboo
shuttle for weaving process.
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Dyeing Process
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The patola is woven on a primitive
hand operated harness loom made out of rosewood and bamboo
strips. The loom lies at a slant, with the left side being
lower than the right side. The bamboo shuttle is made
to move to and fro through warp shades. Each weft thread
is thoroughly examined and matched with each part of the
warp design pattern while weaving.
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Tyeing knots again
after previous dyeing
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The tension of the warp threads
are removed by the help of needle after every time weaving
of 8" to 10" of fabric. Patola weaving is a
highly accurate just a positioning of warp and weft of
similar colour to obtain perfect design and harmony.The
process is labour intensive, time consuming and requires
high order of skill and dexterity.
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Traditional Patola Loom
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It takes three to four months
to prepare tie- dyed design on warp and weft threads for
one sari of 6 yards length by 48" width. Two Salvis
(weavers) working together weave just about 8" to
9" a day. It takes 40 to 50 days to weave a sari.
Thus 4 to 5 persons take a periods of 5 to 6 months to
complete a sari depending on the intricacy of the design.
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Click
here to have a look at different traditional
designs of Patola. |
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